One of Japan’s oldest vegetables, Okahijiki (from the Japanese “seaweed on land”) is a very unusual new treat. The branched spikes of succulent, bright green leaf stems which are crispy and very juicy have a distinctive peppery, rocket-like flavour with a salty tang (it grows wild in salt marshes). Harvest early when the stems are tender and cook only briefly, if at all, to preserve its crispness. Try sautéed with butter or olive oil, lightly steamed, blanched, or raw in salads; keep it simple though to make the most of its subtle and unusual flavour. Lovely accompaniment for fish, look for this hardy annual to grow up to 1ft (30cm).
